Ick Disease |How to treat your Beta Fish
So, you wake up, go to the aquarium and lo and behold, you see that your betta fish looks a little different than it was the night before; it is coated with little white specks and looks almost as if it had been sprinkled with salt. If you have had to deal with this problem, then you aren't alone. The disease is called fish ick and is more common than you would imagine....
What is Fish Ick?
Fish Ick or white spot disease is nothing more than a parasite that resides in all fish tanks. It is actually a common disease for all freshwater fish. The scientific name for the disease is ichthyophthiriasis and the causative agent is Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a common disease (much like the flu) in all fish species although it is more common in aquarium fish. Fish ick (ich) is most likely the leading cause of death in aquarium fish and if you own betta fish, chances are you will encounter it at some point in time.
In fact, if you have fish, chances are your fish has already come into contact with it and it is most likely that it has built up a level of immunity from this parasite. Just like some of us get the flu or a common cold, white spot disease manifests itself when a fish's immune system is in a compromised state. Many experts believe that this state is normally caused by stress.
Causes of Ick
Like I said in the last paragraph, it is believed that stress is the most likely culprit when a fish develops Ick. Most new pet owners don't realize this but a lot of stress comes from the actual handling of the fish from wholesaler to retailer to your house. And you may not be aware but you could be transferring a fish that is infected with white spot disease and not even know it. Other factors (which you can control) that have an affect on your betta fish involve the cleanliness of the aquarium, the temperature of the water, the other fish that populate the tank, and the diet of your betta.
Stages of Ick
White spot disease actually has three stages and the only stage in which you can treat ick is in its last and final stage. The first stage involves the protozoan actually burrowing beneath the skin of your fish. At this stage, you will begin to see the white spots on your fish. You can start treating now but it won't help.
During the second stage, the parasite will drop off the fish and start to multiply at the bottom of the tank. Once again, if you are treating now, it won't affect the parasite.
Finally, the third stage is where the protozoan is actually in its adult stage. It is actively searching for a new host (another fish) to infect and it is at this stage that you can actually form a base of attack.
How to treat Ick
The first time one of my fish got ick, I thought that I would need to treat the fish itself. However, since ick is virtually indestructable when it has infected the fish, you have to understand that treatment of ick involves treating the tank and its environment rather than treating an actual fish itself. In other words, we are going to want to remove the trophite from the tank and by doing so, it will make the fish more healthy.
First of all, Since the first two stages of Ick are untreatable, you are going to want to speed up the life cycle of the parasite to get it to the last cycle of its life quickly. This can be done by gradually increasing the water temperature to 80 degrees over a 48 hour period. By increasing the water temperature, you are in fact, decreasing the cycle time. Usually Ick tomites will cycle in 4 days in 80 degree water. Any cooler and you could be looking at a cycle time in the weeks range.
Secondly, if at all possible, the best treatment for your fish is to remove them from the infected tank for four days. This will allow the parasites to mature through all stages of their life and eventually die off from lack of a host to infect.
Another common treatment is to add formalin, malachite green, or a combination of the two. You can find these at any pet store or purchase it online. Only use a new bottle for this as this chemical will become toxic over time for your fish. During treatment, you are going to want to remove the carbon from the filter and shut off UV sterilizers as this may make the treatment ineffective.
Once you have killed the ich, what now?
How to prevent ick (ick) from ever getting in your aquarium
It is virtually impossible to prevent ick from happening. However, just like the flu in humans, there are ways that we can keep it down to a minimum. Here is a list of things you should do....
Betta Fish Facts
What is Fish Ick?
Fish Ick or white spot disease is nothing more than a parasite that resides in all fish tanks. It is actually a common disease for all freshwater fish. The scientific name for the disease is ichthyophthiriasis and the causative agent is Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a common disease (much like the flu) in all fish species although it is more common in aquarium fish. Fish ick (ich) is most likely the leading cause of death in aquarium fish and if you own betta fish, chances are you will encounter it at some point in time.
In fact, if you have fish, chances are your fish has already come into contact with it and it is most likely that it has built up a level of immunity from this parasite. Just like some of us get the flu or a common cold, white spot disease manifests itself when a fish's immune system is in a compromised state. Many experts believe that this state is normally caused by stress.
Causes of Ick
Like I said in the last paragraph, it is believed that stress is the most likely culprit when a fish develops Ick. Most new pet owners don't realize this but a lot of stress comes from the actual handling of the fish from wholesaler to retailer to your house. And you may not be aware but you could be transferring a fish that is infected with white spot disease and not even know it. Other factors (which you can control) that have an affect on your betta fish involve the cleanliness of the aquarium, the temperature of the water, the other fish that populate the tank, and the diet of your betta.
Stages of Ick
White spot disease actually has three stages and the only stage in which you can treat ick is in its last and final stage. The first stage involves the protozoan actually burrowing beneath the skin of your fish. At this stage, you will begin to see the white spots on your fish. You can start treating now but it won't help.
During the second stage, the parasite will drop off the fish and start to multiply at the bottom of the tank. Once again, if you are treating now, it won't affect the parasite.
Finally, the third stage is where the protozoan is actually in its adult stage. It is actively searching for a new host (another fish) to infect and it is at this stage that you can actually form a base of attack.
How to treat Ick
The first time one of my fish got ick, I thought that I would need to treat the fish itself. However, since ick is virtually indestructable when it has infected the fish, you have to understand that treatment of ick involves treating the tank and its environment rather than treating an actual fish itself. In other words, we are going to want to remove the trophite from the tank and by doing so, it will make the fish more healthy.
First of all, Since the first two stages of Ick are untreatable, you are going to want to speed up the life cycle of the parasite to get it to the last cycle of its life quickly. This can be done by gradually increasing the water temperature to 80 degrees over a 48 hour period. By increasing the water temperature, you are in fact, decreasing the cycle time. Usually Ick tomites will cycle in 4 days in 80 degree water. Any cooler and you could be looking at a cycle time in the weeks range.
Secondly, if at all possible, the best treatment for your fish is to remove them from the infected tank for four days. This will allow the parasites to mature through all stages of their life and eventually die off from lack of a host to infect.
Another common treatment is to add formalin, malachite green, or a combination of the two. You can find these at any pet store or purchase it online. Only use a new bottle for this as this chemical will become toxic over time for your fish. During treatment, you are going to want to remove the carbon from the filter and shut off UV sterilizers as this may make the treatment ineffective.
Once you have killed the ich, what now?
How to prevent ick (ick) from ever getting in your aquarium
It is virtually impossible to prevent ick from happening. However, just like the flu in humans, there are ways that we can keep it down to a minimum. Here is a list of things you should do....
- Regularly change out the water to your aquarium.
- Feed your betta fish a variety of foods- freezed dried and flake food.
- Reduce the stress of your beta's environment by maintaining a constant pH balance and avoid fluctuations in water temperature and ammonia levels.
- Don't overstock your tank with fish.
- Always quarantine new fish for a minimum of four days before introducing them to your main aquarium.
- If a fish shows signs of Ick, remove him to the quarantine tank (min. 4 days)
- Never purchase plant life that has been in a tank with fish in it. If you do, quarantine it.
Betta Fish Facts
Labels: betta fish diseases
# posted by Drunkonlife @ 9:28 AM 
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Thank you for the article. My fish, however has had Ick for months! And is seems to be getting worse. I would like to cure it. I change the water every week.
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