Betta Fish | How to Spot whether you fish is healthy or not.
If only Betta fish could talk, then perhaps we would know exactly what was wrong and how to treat it. Since this is simply not the case, there are several signs that can tell you if your betta fish are healthy or if (taking a quote from NASA) your betta is shouting "Houston, we have a problem".
- First of all, just like any pet, if you betta fish is eating well, then chances are good that it is healthy and happy. A betta fish that doesn't eat is the first step of noticing an issue.
- If your betta fish is active, swimming around then you can take it as a good sign. However, if you find your betta fish is not moving around (for instance, he simply sits at the bottom, occasionally coming up for air or hangs in a corner), then there might be an issue.
- If the belly of the fish looks swollen, then this could be a sign that your fish might have problems.
- You are also going to want "smooth" scales on your fish. If they look "scaly" then there might be problems.
- I may be stating the obvious but if your betta fish has open sores, white spots (ick disease possibly) or any other protusions or color, then it is likely your fish is in need of care.
- Also, if you note strange behavior such as the fish trying to rub itself on rocks, the side of the aquarium or anything else, then you might want to investigate.
- Your betta fish's fins should look to be spread out like fans. Anything else and there is likely an issue.
- If you notice the eyes are protruding or look swollen, then you may want to check into it as well.
Labels: betta fish diseases
Ick Disease |How to treat your Beta Fish
So, you wake up, go to the aquarium and lo and behold, you see that your betta fish looks a little different than it was the night before; it is coated with little white specks and looks almost as if it had been sprinkled with salt. If you have had to deal with this problem, then you aren't alone. The disease is called fish ick and is more common than you would imagine....
What is Fish Ick?
Fish Ick or white spot disease is nothing more than a parasite that resides in all fish tanks. It is actually a common disease for all freshwater fish. The scientific name for the disease is ichthyophthiriasis and the causative agent is Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a common disease (much like the flu) in all fish species although it is more common in aquarium fish. Fish ick (ich) is most likely the leading cause of death in aquarium fish and if you own betta fish, chances are you will encounter it at some point in time.
In fact, if you have fish, chances are your fish has already come into contact with it and it is most likely that it has built up a level of immunity from this parasite. Just like some of us get the flu or a common cold, white spot disease manifests itself when a fish's immune system is in a compromised state. Many experts believe that this state is normally caused by stress.
Causes of Ick
Like I said in the last paragraph, it is believed that stress is the most likely culprit when a fish develops Ick. Most new pet owners don't realize this but a lot of stress comes from the actual handling of the fish from wholesaler to retailer to your house. And you may not be aware but you could be transferring a fish that is infected with white spot disease and not even know it. Other factors (which you can control) that have an affect on your betta fish involve the cleanliness of the aquarium, the temperature of the water, the other fish that populate the tank, and the diet of your betta.
Stages of Ick
White spot disease actually has three stages and the only stage in which you can treat ick is in its last and final stage. The first stage involves the protozoan actually burrowing beneath the skin of your fish. At this stage, you will begin to see the white spots on your fish. You can start treating now but it won't help.
During the second stage, the parasite will drop off the fish and start to multiply at the bottom of the tank. Once again, if you are treating now, it won't affect the parasite.
Finally, the third stage is where the protozoan is actually in its adult stage. It is actively searching for a new host (another fish) to infect and it is at this stage that you can actually form a base of attack.
How to treat Ick
The first time one of my fish got ick, I thought that I would need to treat the fish itself. However, since ick is virtually indestructable when it has infected the fish, you have to understand that treatment of ick involves treating the tank and its environment rather than treating an actual fish itself. In other words, we are going to want to remove the trophite from the tank and by doing so, it will make the fish more healthy.
First of all, Since the first two stages of Ick are untreatable, you are going to want to speed up the life cycle of the parasite to get it to the last cycle of its life quickly. This can be done by gradually increasing the water temperature to 80 degrees over a 48 hour period. By increasing the water temperature, you are in fact, decreasing the cycle time. Usually Ick tomites will cycle in 4 days in 80 degree water. Any cooler and you could be looking at a cycle time in the weeks range.
Secondly, if at all possible, the best treatment for your fish is to remove them from the infected tank for four days. This will allow the parasites to mature through all stages of their life and eventually die off from lack of a host to infect.
Another common treatment is to add formalin, malachite green, or a combination of the two. You can find these at any pet store or purchase it online. Only use a new bottle for this as this chemical will become toxic over time for your fish. During treatment, you are going to want to remove the carbon from the filter and shut off UV sterilizers as this may make the treatment ineffective.
Once you have killed the ich, what now?
How to prevent ick (ick) from ever getting in your aquarium
It is virtually impossible to prevent ick from happening. However, just like the flu in humans, there are ways that we can keep it down to a minimum. Here is a list of things you should do....
Betta Fish Facts
What is Fish Ick?
Fish Ick or white spot disease is nothing more than a parasite that resides in all fish tanks. It is actually a common disease for all freshwater fish. The scientific name for the disease is ichthyophthiriasis and the causative agent is Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is a common disease (much like the flu) in all fish species although it is more common in aquarium fish. Fish ick (ich) is most likely the leading cause of death in aquarium fish and if you own betta fish, chances are you will encounter it at some point in time.
In fact, if you have fish, chances are your fish has already come into contact with it and it is most likely that it has built up a level of immunity from this parasite. Just like some of us get the flu or a common cold, white spot disease manifests itself when a fish's immune system is in a compromised state. Many experts believe that this state is normally caused by stress.
Causes of Ick
Like I said in the last paragraph, it is believed that stress is the most likely culprit when a fish develops Ick. Most new pet owners don't realize this but a lot of stress comes from the actual handling of the fish from wholesaler to retailer to your house. And you may not be aware but you could be transferring a fish that is infected with white spot disease and not even know it. Other factors (which you can control) that have an affect on your betta fish involve the cleanliness of the aquarium, the temperature of the water, the other fish that populate the tank, and the diet of your betta.
Stages of Ick
White spot disease actually has three stages and the only stage in which you can treat ick is in its last and final stage. The first stage involves the protozoan actually burrowing beneath the skin of your fish. At this stage, you will begin to see the white spots on your fish. You can start treating now but it won't help.
During the second stage, the parasite will drop off the fish and start to multiply at the bottom of the tank. Once again, if you are treating now, it won't affect the parasite.
Finally, the third stage is where the protozoan is actually in its adult stage. It is actively searching for a new host (another fish) to infect and it is at this stage that you can actually form a base of attack.
How to treat Ick
The first time one of my fish got ick, I thought that I would need to treat the fish itself. However, since ick is virtually indestructable when it has infected the fish, you have to understand that treatment of ick involves treating the tank and its environment rather than treating an actual fish itself. In other words, we are going to want to remove the trophite from the tank and by doing so, it will make the fish more healthy.
First of all, Since the first two stages of Ick are untreatable, you are going to want to speed up the life cycle of the parasite to get it to the last cycle of its life quickly. This can be done by gradually increasing the water temperature to 80 degrees over a 48 hour period. By increasing the water temperature, you are in fact, decreasing the cycle time. Usually Ick tomites will cycle in 4 days in 80 degree water. Any cooler and you could be looking at a cycle time in the weeks range.
Secondly, if at all possible, the best treatment for your fish is to remove them from the infected tank for four days. This will allow the parasites to mature through all stages of their life and eventually die off from lack of a host to infect.
Another common treatment is to add formalin, malachite green, or a combination of the two. You can find these at any pet store or purchase it online. Only use a new bottle for this as this chemical will become toxic over time for your fish. During treatment, you are going to want to remove the carbon from the filter and shut off UV sterilizers as this may make the treatment ineffective.
Once you have killed the ich, what now?
How to prevent ick (ick) from ever getting in your aquarium
It is virtually impossible to prevent ick from happening. However, just like the flu in humans, there are ways that we can keep it down to a minimum. Here is a list of things you should do....
- Regularly change out the water to your aquarium.
- Feed your betta fish a variety of foods- freezed dried and flake food.
- Reduce the stress of your beta's environment by maintaining a constant pH balance and avoid fluctuations in water temperature and ammonia levels.
- Don't overstock your tank with fish.
- Always quarantine new fish for a minimum of four days before introducing them to your main aquarium.
- If a fish shows signs of Ick, remove him to the quarantine tank (min. 4 days)
- Never purchase plant life that has been in a tank with fish in it. If you do, quarantine it.
Betta Fish Facts
Labels: betta fish diseases
Betta Fish Food | What is the best food?
First of all, understand that in the wild betta fish are carnivorous, meaning they eat meat. In the wild, their diet consists primarily of insects and it larvae. While you may not be able to go out to your garden and grab some "ants" and "worms", there are products (fish food) that will help you replicate what they are used to in the wild.
Most people will feed their pet betta flake fish food, which consists of brine shrimp or beef hearts. However, if at all possible, a betta would prefer live fish food.
From a biological standpoint, a betta fish's mouth is upturned giving it the best possible chances of grabbing insects that live on the water. There are even instances where a beta will jump out of the water to grab food (as seen in a video I posted). A betta fish can eat vegatarian food but not for long as their alimentary system is shorter. Bottom line is these fish are built to eat meat.
If you can't feed your Betta live food, there are alot of products geared to the betta. These products are specialized to give your fish the nutrition it needs...most are freeze dried or frozen. If you elect to feed your Betta flakey food, then understand that you will need to supplement it as well.
- Betta Tubifex
- Beef hearts
- Daphnia
- Glassworms
- Plankton
Labels: betta fish faq's, betta fish for beginners
How to Pick the Right Aquarium for your Betta Fish
It is nothing new to say that Betta fish are probably one of the easiest fish to care for in the world. If you don't have a ton of time to care for a pet, then this type of tropical fish is perfect for you. However, what kind of tank should you look for when you buy your first betta?
First off, if you are keeping your betta fish in a jar or a bowl, this is fine although not recommended long term. One of the things you should consider is that if you whatever type of tank you are keeping your fish in, it should be large enough for it to be able to swim around without the possibility of tearing a fin or his scales.
Another thing you should be aware of is that the more surface area on top (where oxygen can get through), the better it is for your betta. Like goldfish, bettas don't require a large amount of oxygen. However, they do require some. And the more surface area a betta fish has, the easier it is for him to breathe.
One of the biggest pluses to owning this tropical fish is that unlike many other fish, betta fish don't require a filtration system in order to live. However, that said, while you may not need a filtration system, you will need to keep the water as clean as possible. I actually clean my tank twice a month and it seems to work for me. Changing the water in the tank takes a little forethought though. You should use something called aged water as a replacement. All that implies is that you should let your "new" water sit out for at least 24 hours. Why? I am not sure but I imagine it has something to do with the oxydation of the aged water.
You still should be aware that optimal surroundings for a betta fish are warm, soft and only slightly acidic PH wise. You can actually purchase a PH testing kit at your local pet store. Go for 7.0 PH. Also, you should be aware that unlike salt water fish, water movement should be kept to a minimum. Remember that these fish usually reside in rice ponds in the wild and aren't used to currents. Because of this, if you are going to use a filtration system, you should stay away from a power filter.
Like I said earlier, beta's don't require a lot of space but once you advance to "the next level" and purchase an actual aquarium, chances are likely that more than one fish won't be enough. And if you haven't figured out yet, a fish with the name siamese fighting fish is likely not to be so friendly and play well with others. So what types of fish can you put in a tank with a betta?
That is pretty much it. I will be going over the types of filtration devices at a later date. For now, go out there and get you a betta fish. They are perfect for any person who wants a pet but doesn't have the time required by most pets.
First off, if you are keeping your betta fish in a jar or a bowl, this is fine although not recommended long term. One of the things you should consider is that if you whatever type of tank you are keeping your fish in, it should be large enough for it to be able to swim around without the possibility of tearing a fin or his scales.
Another thing you should be aware of is that the more surface area on top (where oxygen can get through), the better it is for your betta. Like goldfish, bettas don't require a large amount of oxygen. However, they do require some. And the more surface area a betta fish has, the easier it is for him to breathe.
One of the biggest pluses to owning this tropical fish is that unlike many other fish, betta fish don't require a filtration system in order to live. However, that said, while you may not need a filtration system, you will need to keep the water as clean as possible. I actually clean my tank twice a month and it seems to work for me. Changing the water in the tank takes a little forethought though. You should use something called aged water as a replacement. All that implies is that you should let your "new" water sit out for at least 24 hours. Why? I am not sure but I imagine it has something to do with the oxydation of the aged water.
You still should be aware that optimal surroundings for a betta fish are warm, soft and only slightly acidic PH wise. You can actually purchase a PH testing kit at your local pet store. Go for 7.0 PH. Also, you should be aware that unlike salt water fish, water movement should be kept to a minimum. Remember that these fish usually reside in rice ponds in the wild and aren't used to currents. Because of this, if you are going to use a filtration system, you should stay away from a power filter.
Like I said earlier, beta's don't require a lot of space but once you advance to "the next level" and purchase an actual aquarium, chances are likely that more than one fish won't be enough. And if you haven't figured out yet, a fish with the name siamese fighting fish is likely not to be so friendly and play well with others. So what types of fish can you put in a tank with a betta?
- Algae Eaters (which I recommend since you can change the water less frequently with them.
- Guppies (although bettas do eat the youngsters from time to time.
- Corydorous Catfish
That is pretty much it. I will be going over the types of filtration devices at a later date. For now, go out there and get you a betta fish. They are perfect for any person who wants a pet but doesn't have the time required by most pets.
Labels: Betta Fish Aquarium FAQ's
Betta Fish | Want an easy pet to care for? Try Betta Fish
The betta fish comes in many different varieties...
- Regular Bettas (Known as Betta Splendens)
- Crown Tail Bettas
- Twin Tail Bettas
- Half Moon Bettas
- Delta Tail Bettas
- Super Delta Tail Bettas
- Spade or Pin Tail Bettas
- Veil Tail Bettas
Because of their hardiness, betta fish don't require that much in terms of care....if you can feed them regularly, then your siamese fighting fish will do fine. A little food, and with cleaning out the water on a weekly or bi-weekly basis is really all you need to keep your betta fish happy.
Why do people like Betta Fish?
In fact, the siamese fighting fish comes in all colors, opaque, cellophane (transparent), red, royal blue, purple, and many more. Virtually all colors are represented with these fish, which is one of the reasons why so many people love them. Each fish is unique in its own way!
Yes, it is true...never put two males together in the same tank. If you do, you can expect a fight on your hands! In fact, something like a mirror can spark a response known as "flaring", in which the betta will puff its tail out...it may even try to attack!
Labels: betta fish for beginners
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